Day Nine - Mesa Verde and the Solar Eclipse

Day Nine - 20th May - An Asazani Eclipse

Today I saw my second Solar Eclipse this time though it was slightly more incredible than watching it from the steps of Godstowe. Back then, surrounded by hundreds of stereotypical English private school girls, our awe was somewhat diluted by the fact that we all had to line up, single-file, row upon row, staring up at the sky and sneaking peaks over the rims of our goofy glasses when we thought no one was looking.

Instead, as we giddily wait at the top of the hill, we’re surrounded by people who are obsessed with this eclipse. There are people here who have been preparing for months for this exact experience. They have cameras that are filming the actual occurrence, cameras filming us as we run around and talk and almost burst with excitement, and of course cameras for photos too. They have special screens with them to make sure their cameras aren’t fried by the sun. They’re more prepared than a Thanksgiving turkey. Tom pretty much led our motley troupe through the whole thing, his Starwatch app making him the one in the know. I’m fairly certain he could do anything he wanted with his life – he just seems to know so much about so many different things. Anyway, he was the one that realised the eclipse was happening and did all that hocus-pocus-technology stuff to put us at the top of that hill.

We’d spent the day exploring the Asazani Cliff Dwellings – citadel like ruins that are literally built into crevasse-type gouges in the side of the cliffs. If you read about the solitary Buddhist monasteries that cling to the edges of mountains or miraculously perch over a frothing gorge, you’ll have some idea of what these  ruins are like: strange, unique, many storied impossibilities. We heard the little history that’s know about them. Likely lived in around the time of Christ or not long after. Likely abandoned around two or three hundred years later. At first where we visited seemed the only settlement but there were ruins everywhere. In fact, we’d all poured out into one of the many standing structures that repeated as far as the eye could see. Ancient stones had tumbled and not moved for hundreds of years, lichen and moss-covered now, home to insects and worm. A perfect place to hide from the elements or the enemy as their camouflage colours conceal the majority whilst the caves themselves do the rest.

The tour guide was what we’d later realised was a fairly typical Santa Fe character.

“The experience of the ruins is like touching out into the universal history of mankind.” He says in a slow, soft voice, “It changes your soul. I’m going to take you on a journey and it’ll change you.”

Cynical as it may sound, fairly certain he was a wee bit deluded. Life changing was Yosemite or the Navajo – a forty minute tour surrounded by thirty-odd blobby Americans and Ranger Scott crying over his red bike , being ushered through faster than it takes to snap a photo... it’s the sort of thing that hints at history, suggests a one-time world and  culture then strips it of any and all power.

Yet an impromptu trek up to the top of a hill, surrounded by hippies strumming Wagonwheel whilst waiting for the ring of fire. THAT was the experience that made a difference to us all.

Furthermore, we did learn some interesting stories about the different ‘worlds’ – I found it curious that the Ancient Greeks and Romans imagined the world detracting from the Golden Age to the Iron Age (our own), yet the Asazani reversed it – seeing progress from the First World to the Third and the Fifth (our own). Perhaps it’s worth some reading. However, those stories will never have the ring that Richie’s voice gave How the Stars were Made nor lend the peculiar mystery that lingered in Jordan’s.

A wonderful day – completed with Dave buying dinner at a quaint little place in Durango but I’d definitely urge people to go to the ruins early and embrace the bizarre there. And try to avoid dear old tearful Scotty. 

Je serai poète et toi poésie,
SCRIBBLER

Day eight - Tsé Biiʼ Ndzisgaii

Day eight – 19th May- Monument Valley and the Navajo

YA’AH-TEEH dear friends!!! That means something along the lines of hello in Navajo. Although I think I should start by saying that word of the day is Spellbound.

Arriving in Monument Valley, we pitched out tents in a haphazard hurry, joking about the possible rattlesnakes and scorpions before heading out across the flat, red-green land, towards the silhouetted monuments that indicate the Native American Navajo Reservation. I know I said if before but there’s something indescribable about what we saw and did over the following few hours but I’ll do my best. Richie meets us, introducing to Tsé Biiʼ Ndzisgaii, the Valley of the Rocks, teaching us some Navajo greetings and the necessary Ps&Qs. Richie’s real name is so long and unpronounceable I won’t be trying to write it here, I’d likely turn it into an insult or something. Herding us into his open sided jeep, he speaks in a wonderful voice that seems to always hold a smile in it. He points out the various buttes and mesas, telling stories of his childhood and some of the mythology around the rocks. We’re told to jump from the rocks, sprint up the dunes and tumble back down. We do so laughing all the way.

He takes us to a cave, worn through by the wind and has us lie looking up at a hole that leads to the sky, the ring around it looking like a perfect eagle eye. With our backs to the warm, red rock, a melody begins and he’s playing the two-pronged flute in such a way that it’s like listening to a wooden bagpipe albeit smoother than anything I’ve ever heard in Edinburgh.

Once we’ve seen the trail, we’re taken in a sweeping curve around The Praying Hands to dinner with a handful of other Navajo. Tucked into an alcove, we wash our hands in cool water before being given a huge meal of traditional fry-bread, beans, green leaves, tomato, spices and steak. The boys were incredibly happy, especially Adam who shotgunned Maggie’s before we even arrived. It was a struggle to finish but the tradition says that you must.

A fire crackled throughout our meal, maintained as the drum was watered and stoked as we finished and were invited to the entertainment. The Navajo have a huge respect for music. It comes from the soul. As our ‘leader’ began to sing the Call to Dance – out springs a writhing, stamping, bell-clad dancer – his feet adding cow-bell sounds to the heavy beat of the drum and the entreating voice. Dust is kicked up by his feet, his eyes burn with energy, the ferocity of his movement takes us aback. A fan of twelve red-tailed hawk feathers is in his hand, twitched and jabbed like a weapon. The bright red garb, the grass-like uniform that we associate with ‘traditional Indian dress’ seeming more vivid in the firelight. A sudden halt, the wild-dancer with the painted face is Jordan, his warlike ardency comes through in a story. You’ll have to go if you want to hear them all though because the magic won’t be there in any written rendition.

We asked to join in then. I partnered Jordan. He taught us the dance, spinning us round – barefooted and laughing, we span and span. It was almost like a Ceilidh in the way that it was so simply enjoyable and unselfconscious. Afterwards, we played a game. Angela was not impressed when we were told to compete in a sing-off of A Whole New World.

Night fell. The moon was pale, a yellow fishbone in the sky it’s light making a halo with the dust of the dunes. Navy sky was almost royal blue; the stars were so bright, almost wafting in milky streams like glitter floating on cataract eyes. Fizzing meteorites swept across the darkness with blue-green tails of ice and peculiar space heat. A cool breeze drifted lazily from the North. Two conical monuments could be seen, tipping their hats to the skyline and the wind flew from there. Picking up the sand as it came, the wind arrived, just a brush of coolness. The desert stretched for miles, the sweeping sands that moved like the ocean as they flickered across the surface of the dunes in the wind. The dunes were like waves, constantly shifting, lifting, rising along the earth and sinking down, deep, tumbling into shadowed crests.

In the dark, dark, quiet, we stood faces uplifted, admiring the awesomeness of the sky and listening as the deep, velveteen voice of our Navajo guide threaded his needle and wove his story.

Once, he said, there was only pure light and pure darkness to distinguish the day and night. This was the fifth world and the first people disliked the completeness of the dark at night – they wanted some source of light. So all the animals were asked to give their coats to make a huge swathe of cloth and to place pebbles onto the cloth. The animals were pleased with this new game and formed patterns upon the cloth, laughing and laughing. But one had been left out: the transformative trickster Coyote. When he saw their new game he approached, wishing to be part of their new game. Asking to join he was denied.

“Coyote, you always do everything wrong and cause problems. You cannot have any pebbles.”

“But I want to join in,” argued Coyote.

They laughed again and told him to leave them for he was not welcome.

Moping, Coyote moved away but their laughter followed him so he went to a mountain and howled  out his sadness. Still they laughed at the sound of his hurt. Howls echoed off the rocky face of his mountain, reverberating through the night. When they continued to laugh, however, he became incensed. Why should they laugh at him when he was sad? So storming back down the mountain, he came to their clearing and still they laughed and laughed and played with their pebbles.

Darting forward, Coyote grabbed the edge of the great cloth and with a snap and a snarl he whipped it away from his fellow animals, sending the pebbles upward, soaring towards the sky, patterns disrupted and shifted as they became stuck on the inky blue of the dark. Their glow becoming the stars.

I think there’s Magic in Monument Valley and if there was anywhere on this trip that I would recommend with every fibre of my being it would be there, with them, dancing and laughing and singing.

Ah-sheh'heh Richie and Jordan for making the night so incredible.

HAGOONEE

Je serai poète et toi poésie,
SCRIBBLER

Day seven - The Grand Canyon

Day Seven – 18th May - The Grand Canyon

I’m clinging to a rock face, fingers tightly curled around a sturdy crag, toes carefully placed along a small ridge, body pressed close to the surface and I have a 6000ft vertical drop behind me.

How have I done this? Why am I doing this? You may be perplexed: you’re reading about a twenty-something, literature student whose epic incompetence when it comes to hiking is well-documented. Only now, she’s climbing up a rocky, red ridge. Well, Grand Canyon does this to you – it robs you of any common sense. You want to throw yourself off because you can’t believe you’ll ever hit the bottom. You can’t help but wonder if this great dry split-in-the-earth could possibly have anything living in it and ponder in puzzlement over the hawks drawing lines in the sky. You stare hard enough and the distance between the many sides blur into one continuous scene.

The Grand Canyon is beyond language. I’m writing this on the bus to Monument Valley and my hands are sore from writing postcards trying to detail my awe at the place.

 Sunset: we watched as the canyon filled up with shadows, followed the shifting colours with our eyes as the ruddy hues of umber rock shimmered yellow in the last glimpses of the sun before burning a deep red  and then dulling into darkness.. Standing on the edge, looking out over the rim – the depth is unfathomable, incomprehensible to the mind. The ineluctable modality of the visible. Far, far away from our feet, you can see the last shimmer of the river as it catches sunlight like a mirror, blinking once, twice, no more. Tufts of coarse brush, shiver in the mild wind that’s quickly catching an chill.

Sunrise: it’s so cold, Maggie hoots her horn and off to the Canyon for the miasma of colours to rise again from the dark, gaping rift in the earth. The sky bursts with blue and a yellow line presses upwards from the horizon. So many shades, the sea of shadow begins to churn: deep blood red on the canyon cliffs, the umber bursting with gold and yellow and orange. Which is more beautiful? The sky as it blushes a rosy dawn or the canyon as she wakes, pencil scribble birds circling upwards but never out? 

We walk along the Rim Trail to Bright Angel Lodge – laughing at the surreal vision of Grand Cayon, imagining Ansel Adams trying to capture this on film and wondering if he felt the same strange head-space when the moment simply cannot be described  in any true form. If we had more days we could have hiked right into the Canyon along the Bright Angel Trail, down to the silver slither of river at the bottom, walked along the banks and dipped out toes in the rapid waters. We watched an IMAX film about the River – about the one-armed adventurer who first traced the full length of the Colorado rushing along the bottom. John Wesley Powell – geologist, soldier and diarist – his journey took 3-months. Incredible. I'd love to do the two-week river trip sometime too. 

In other news, we picked up a new passenger in Vegas – his name is Dave and he’s another GAdventure guy (in fact he’s Maggie’s higher-up). Loud, funny, joining right in with all the silly jokes and banter, he makes incredible percolated coffee for everyone in the morning and has kindly offered to tweet out my blog for me to the G-tours followers.

 And before the boys catch me out – we didn’t actually climb up the Grand Canyon – we were just posturing.

I’ll write again soon. 

Je serai poète et toi poésie, 
SCRIBBLER

Day Six - Vegas Baby

Day Six - 17th May - Vegas Baby!

Mes lectuers fantastinque! Here are some things that you ought to know about Vegas – from the free stuff to the nightlife (and no, unfortunately I did not do all this in two nights but I did do my research and I have found second opinions for a number of things). It's a long one so kudos to those who read it all!

FREE FUN

Almost all the big hotels and casinos have something unique about them that’s open to all of us, regardless of our gambling habits!

The Bellagio, for example, has a number of things that you can go see, including a stunning Conservatory that’s open all the time. Cultivated by a plethora of different horticulturalists, the artificial garden is elegant and elaborate – actually reminding me a lot of Willy Wonka’s chocolate garden only inedible. Bright and airy, it’s a nice place to walk around if you’re not in the mood to deal with the blistering outdoor heat but still want to see daylight rather than the usual yellow gloom of the casinos. Similarly, remember those Fountains that I mentioned last time? Those are free too. Just outside The Bellagio, you know them from the end scene of Ocean’s Eleven, the ten-acres of water shimmer gently in the daylight but from 3pm to Midnight on weekdays (last one 11.55pm), they spill up in choreographed motions full of light. Described as a ‘symphony of light and water’, they run every half hour until 7pm and then every 15minuted after that. On weekends you can even go see them at noon, though I’d always recommend the night viewing just so you see the full effect of the dazzling colours along with the fountains themselves.

Others include animal features:

Caesars has a water tank full of fish that you can see being fed at 1.15pm and 5.15pm each day by a diver inside the tank. They also have a weird show called ‘The Fall of Atlantis’ which includes water and fire effects around three creepy android-humanoids that are meant to represent the King, his most loyal, semi-nude female huntress and his most disloyal, fiery counterpart. I wouldn’t recommend it unless you’re a farcry from sober when it could be fun BUT if you are in the area you can still check out the Forum Shops which really are amazing. I’ve never seen an H&M look so swanky. For the record though the ‘Fall’ show happens every hour on the hour from 9am to 11pm (Sun-Thurs) and 9am to Midnight (Fri-Sat).

Then there are Lions that you can see being fed at 11.15am and 430pm at the MGM Grand. Opening at 11am and closing at 7pm, the wild beasts roam their habitat throughout the day, stalking the pen as guests and visitors click away on their cameras. You can find them inside the MGM located at the end of The Strip.

If I remember rightly, there are also Tigers at the Mirage. They’re found inside, in Seigfreid and Roy’s Secret Garden. The exotic, wondrous world inside this hotel ‘zoo’ also contains other big cats and there’s a Dolphin Habitat too. You do have to pay for this one though so it’s really a small aside.

Talking of amazing things though, if there’s the ONE REASON I WANT TO COME BACK TO VEGAS: THE SHOW IN THE SKY  at the Rio.  Oh yes – here is something that could actually bring me back – a sensual, upbeat, exciting journey through the greatest celebrations of the world  in their own massive daily festival. Dancers, costumes, masks – you can be part of it too either as a bystander (free) or as part of the parade itself ($12 BARGAIN). If you  want to do this then you should make your way to the Masquerade Village Main Stage thirty minutes earlier than you would just for the show. There are only twenty-one spots though so probably arrive EVEN EARLIER to guarantee your spot. Doing this means you end up in costume and ride in the show. Yup – I want to be part of this so bad

NOT SO FREE STUFF

 I have to start this with the Stratosphere Thrill Rides. At the top of our hotel was a bundle of rides that you can go on right at the top of the  108 storied hotel. $16 will take you to the top of the hotel for a view and $34 will give you a day pass to all the rides. If you’re not scared of heights and you like a little danger – this is probably for you as you hurtle off the building in a spinning harness or plunge down from the X Scream. The best are probably X Scream,  Big Shot and Insanity. You can also do what I wanted to do and pay from $109 to jump off the building properly – careening towards the earth from a terrifying 855ft . As you plummet, you’ll have the best view in the house of the Strip and the surrounding desert – plus you’ll have your five minutes of fame and probably earn yourself a drink or two from awed friends who were secretly more scared than you were.

You can also pretend to be in a different country by going to the top of the Eiffel Tower  for $10 (until 7.30pm) or $15 (after 7.30 pm) , or Take a Gondola Ride at The Venetian for $16  (rides last around a quarter of an hour)

TRAVEL

We used three kind of transport – the Monorail ($5/ride – discounts for multi-ride/all-day passes; starting at 7am/ finishing 2am-3am); the Duece Double Decker Bus (from Freemont St to the South Strip – it’s $7/day and you NEED EXACT CHANGE unless you’re able to blag your way on like my friends and I. We paid $8 between seven of us); Taxis – they will try to con you if they think they can but they should NOT COST MORE THAN $20 ANYWHERE. Vegas isn’t that big, especially not the places you probably want to be.

NIGHT LIFE

 We didn’t actually go out to any of the clubs or bars – preferring to  drink and party around the casinos. It’s easy enough to peruse the floors during the day and be given free entry or queue-jump passes  so keep an eye out for people with multicoloured bands in the casinos. Some of the places we wanted to go though were The Rio’s Rooftop Voodoo Bar that claims the best views in Vegas. The Ghostbar at the Palms also hails a whopping 55-floor view and the Skin Pool Lounge which you can see all the way through the transparent acrylic floor. The one we were most tempted to find on the first night was The Pussy Cat Dolls Lounge at Caesar’s Palace as it’s supposedly pretty chilled out but with a great vibe. The boys were also enticed by the burlesque dancers that come out every night, pretty much every thirty minutes. If you’re more of a high-end club goer though, we had a great time finding out about LUX the ‘destination of choice’ for everyone . From A-listers to the real socialites of the world, DJ AM and Vice pump out the beats at Luxor’s renowned club.

Others you might want to look up:

1.       Studio 54 (MGM GRAND) – 10pm opening Tues-Sat. Two storeys of pop and house. DRESS SPECTACULAR. Tuesdays are their EDEN (erotically delicious entertainters night) and Thursdays are their DOLLHOUSE night with live body dancers and all female DJ lineup.

2.         The Fountain Room (MANDALAY BAY) – “Great music, great music, great service and great view “ – just note they say nothing about the people.

3.       Coyote Ugly (NEW YORK NEW YORK) a la it’s namesake – see the movie and you have an idea of what you’re in for.

4.       Rain in the Desert (PALMS) – fourteen foot fireballs lighting up the elevated dance floor – this is supposedly the haunt of the under-30s – with a “slicker and edgier feel to it”. Great lighting and extraordinary layout make it exciting for even the seasoned night owl. MTV-friendly and mainstream.

5.       Marquee (COSMOPOLITAN)  - one of the biggest mega-clubs of the city and voted as 11^th  best club in the world and number ONE in North America – this could be worth your time. Drinks are expensive (albeit large and apparent fabulous). You will want a line-jump for this one as it can take HOURS (NB PLURAL) to conquer the queue otherwise!)

So that’s Vegas. My advice and gift and love to you. Also – the Skyjump was cancelled so I can’t do it – the winds are cray-cray tonight and they won’t let you jump when it’s  over 44mph winds which apparently it is. Oh well – another reason to come back right? We’ve had so much fun and I’ve loved it here. I don’t feel like I ever want to gamble again, it’s kind of boring even when you’re winning, but it is a laugh and it’s been a blast hanging out with all the guys, seeing all the absurdly designed casinos and basking in the wonderful dry heat. I’m not missing the Carolina humidity right now.

If you’ve read this far WELL DONE AND I LOVE YOU. I’ll write again soon. 

Je serai poète et toi poésie, 
SCRIBBLER

Day Five - Death Valley/Vegas

Day five – 16th May - Feeling Hot Hot Hot 

PHEW. I think I’m in love with aircon. My dearly beloved readers, if you’re going through death valley stock up a cooler with water because it’s drier than smoke in Death Valley, and if you can put your paws on that instant water cool spray, bring it with you. If you want to climb the dunes wear proper SHOES none of that flipflop nonsense because your feet will BURN from the sands if you’re not careful. Maggie had a stroke of genius and secreted a water melon for us for lunch (food won’t occur to you unless it’s waterbased out there) which seemed a mini-miracle when it was revealed to us. Best watermelon I’ve ever had. We took photos, saw the salt flats then sped towards the cool, wonderful Las Vegas strip.

Staying in the Stratosphere, I’m determined to do the Sky Jump from the top of the building. It’s a controlled jump instead of a bungee but it gives you a great view of the strip and everyone I know recommends it. It seems I’m the only keen bean though so it’s time to put these boys to shame! It’s also Tom’s Birthday today! HAPPY BIRTHDAY TOM!!! He turned 26 and what better place to have a birthday than Vegas!

Having arrived, we had the biggest buffet (which for me was just wonderful sushi and tonnes of fish) at the Rio Hotel, we then unloaded, spent a good fourty-five minutes checking-in and then it was hot, lovely showers, nice clothes and a brilliant Party Bus Tour of Vegas. We hit the Freemont Street, had birthday shots with the birthday boy (12 for price of 5!!), took obnoxious photos by the Vegas Sign and then headed for The Bellagio for the 11.55 Fountain Show. It was so much fun! Liam set the trend making the most of the stripper poles, Tom finding joy in the ice buckets, Maggie playing a little too much with the music system (bring your own ipod if you want your own music!!) – even Janice started her own dance off with Jon!

The Bellagio really is like you see in Oceans Eleven and we attempted to figure out who was who but everyone wanted the main characters or the British explosives expert. Decorated like the Ritz and with the fountain show over, we trawled along the Strip and ended up in The Cosmopolitan. For those of you that know The Crazy Bear in Amersham (or Covent Garden) then you’ll have a vague idea of what this hotel is like – over the top lights and wide leather sofas although of course distinguished by the repeated bing bing bing of casino bells.

Robert won nearly $200, I put my paws on $40 and most of the others lost-some-won-some at roulette. It turns out I do owe that nice fellow who sat next to me on the LAS-San Fran flight for teaching me a few tricks at blackjack. On the other hand, Maggie and I were increasingly merry and the boys were wonderfully funny and I think everyone had fun whether it was winning or losing. Tomorrow I gamble my life at 10pm for the skyjump but ciao for now - it's time to hit the floor once more.

Je serai poète et toi poésie, 
SCRIBBLER

Day Four - Bishop

Day Four - May 15th - Water, Water, Water and Bishop

Yes we jumped into the glacial Tenaya lake 

Hello my brilliant compadres! If you’re just joining in on the adventure then welcome! If you’re a loyalist then I hope you realise how exciting it is to finally have reached Bishop.

Bishop is a straight drive down the Tioga Pass from our campsite in Yosemite. You actually drive through the parkland and high into the mountains when you take the Tioga Pass. As you rise along the track, you ears pop and that odd feeling in your head accentuates the sudden sense of space and distance between yourself and the natural world around you. Maggie was pretty much bouncing in her seat with excitement as she described the lakes we were going to pass and the Hot Springs that would meet us at the end.

Driving the roads that coil about the mountainsides, we could see snow banks against the spring greens and I’m sure I wasn’t the only one to be astonished by the fact that it could be so cold when yesterday we were just hiking in shorts and t-shirts. In fact from what I can tell most of us are still wearing just shorts and tshirts.

So on the road the jokes have begun, I guess we’re settling into a rhythm! Essentially, our aussie (John) is a bit of a pun master (they call him the mushroom because he’s a fun-gi) and he saw opportunity in the name of Hugh. Hugh let the dogs out. Hugh’s been framed. Hughmongous etc etc. There’s also the hilarity of Robert’s continued search for a comb. We’ll have to buy him one somewhere. The characters of this trip are certainly coming to life and I’m glad we’ve skipped over the awkwardness that could ensue. The boys are, of course, already cracking comments about their ‘frustration’ and Angela’s vehemently trying to resist becoming ‘Ange’. Plus we’re learning a bit more about each other. Adam works in insurance but he used to do security at Gatwick. Robert’s a 22 year old creative writing student from Leicester and physically cannot talk loudly. Tom’s waiting for the penny to drop before he makes any plans to settle into a job but is really incredibly passionate about information (by that I mean he likes to know ‘why’ or ‘what’ about things). Liam’s actually not the mild-mannered chap he initially appeared but a little bit of a lad. I’ll add them to a character list soon.

Anyway, we reached the first lake we came to was Tenaya. With snow drifts on its banks the boys all wimped about of jumping in leaving Maggie and I to do the honours. Diving into the freezing water from a flat rock, we shrieked in the water then almost flew out. It was icy. Unbelievably frozen and cold – if anything lives in there it’s a determined sob. Yet the tingling alive energy that overwhelmed us afterwards was incredible. We were fully awake and vibrant and couldn’t stop giggling even as we shivered in the nippy breeze. Of  course, after sitting in our damp clothes in the bus we were slightly less exuberant but we had Mono Lake to look forward to.

Mono Lake is a huge salt lake that’s supposedly really good for your skin and hair. Telling us about it, Maggie was telling us about how you cannot sink in the water because it’s so intensely salty and when you come out of the water your skin turns a strange shade of white for the same reason. The lake has an interesting background – when Vegas was being built, they siphoned off a lot of the water so it rapidly began to diminish. Now, they’re trying to restore the lake to nearly its old levels but it still has aways to go. When we arrived, everyone was ready to run in, only it was still pretty rocky and cold so we more like staggered in, floundered and then sprinted out. Liam managed to make a brilliant video with my own aborted entry attempt. Tom and Adam rumbled in the water before they fled – only Jon was really brave enough to go all the way in.

Now, with all of us quivering in the cold we trekked the last little bit to Bishop. After sausages and buns and ice cream for dinner, it was time for the Keogh Hot Springs – the definite highlight of the day!! Dark, perfectly warm, reed-rounded water, a frog muttering nearby, the stars dazzling overhead. It was wonderful. We ‘re pddling, sinking into the water, not sure what to make of the brush and push of small fish against our bodies when there’s mention of eels and leeches and snakes and something slithered across the backs of our legs. Screaming, Angela and I clutch at each other only... what’s this? Paul has snapped off a five foot branch and is strategically stroking the ankles and calves of his victims. He got us good.

As I finish this off, we're curled up around the campfire, planning on sleeping outside so we can stargaze. I’m in as many layers as I can possibly wear because my sleepingbag has turned out to be a pathetic light thing that’s suitable for 55F and no lower. It’s ok though because we’re all in a bundle and the smoke smell is lovely wafting across us with a memory of heat. 

Je serai poète et toi poésie, 
SCRIBBLER

Day Three - Climbing the Mountain

Day three – 14^th May – Climbing the Mountain

Good morning wonderful readers! Sorry for the delay but as you probably can figure out, there's limited wifi when you're crossing the desert. Anyway, this post was written just after we left our first big stop and my god, I don’t think I’ve ever been so tired and so happy at the same time. 

I feel like I conquered the world today and maybe saw why people like the teleological argument so much. Yosemite’s landscape is a myriad of greens with the soft smell of damp and grass as you hike the trails. Dappling the ground, the sun blinks between the leaves and casts luminescent shadows on the grey-boulder rocks. They’re as big as me, bigger even and we clambered up and down them for twenty minutes for the view (and photos of course!) Maggie’s enthusiasm was catching and we all found ourselves startling at the natural beauty all around us.

I could split the experience into three sections – up to the bridge where we first saw the Vernall Falls; up to the top of Vernall Falls and then up to Nevada Falls. Trekking to the Bridge wasn’t hard at all, steep but not too much so, the trail lead you round the edge of the mountain, opening up across the valley and hinting at the things to come. Somehow, because of the sheer enormity of the view, it’s almost impossible to take it what you’re seeing. The world around you hardly seems tangible, becoming 2-D at times as your brain can’t process how high or how low or how huge the things around you are. Then you begin the route to the top of Vernall.

This was the most incredible thing I’ve done in a very very very long time. Pacing it up the mountain, Tom and I took the lead at first (well, behind Paul who launched into aggressive climbers mode before we could blink) and we took the Summer Path, definitely the one I would recommend to anyone else wanting to do this route. Also known as the John Muir Mist Trail, the route twists along the side of the waterfall itself. It was at this point that I think we all felt a touch of something extraordinary. Spritzing from the waterfall itself, a rush of coolness, the breath of a deity flushing round the edge of the rock. Water trickled down the stone trail as it turned into loosely designed steps. Then suddenly, much to our bemused amusement we see people donning brightly coloured ponchos as they pause on the side before rounding the next bend. As we followed we quickly realised why. The vague mist was now a full shower of shimmering water. Rainbows curved from one side to the other: double complete rainbow turning into a circular band of paints. Soaked and smiling we continued the increasingly strenuous ascent. Rising, rising up to the very summit and finally bursting out of the silvery mist into the bright morning sun. It was ten thirty and we were immersed in a scenery that took our breath away.

When you look out across the Vernall Falls, you can see the sprawl of forest, the rocky peaks, the effects of tectonic movement. So, of course, with hearts pounding with electric exuberance we decide to go even higher, to make our way to the highest point below Half Dome.

I won’t lie and say that the climb to Nevada Falls was as easy/moderate a climb as the one to Vernall.  In fact all of us struggled except Jordan who bounded like a mountain goat up the path. For the rest of us, the route was tough – steep and constant, zig-zagging at almost vertical inclines at points. I don’t know how Robert did it in jeans but some how he and I were next behind Jordan with John following with Liam and then Tom and Adam bringing up the end. The top is a flat rock. Barren and golden brown, you can bask like a snake in the sun up there, watching for bluejays and listening to the roaring river.

It was the noise that made everything seem so vital: that bursting, crashing, crushing, snarling waterfall and the constant babbling, bubbling, rushing river above and below. There’s nothing quite like it.

I don’t quite know what else to say – a lot of the experience here is completely ineluctable. You’d need to go Joyce to capture all the running strands of my thoughts as I muse on what we did. Beautiful and exhausting, well worth it and I’d recommend it to anyone and everyone who has a little determination to clamber to the top. 

THINGS TO DO IF YOU DON'T WANT TO CLIMB:

1. You can actually ride a mule to the top of the mountian if you're feeling sore or just not inclined to do it yourself. You can't do the Mist Trail but you can go up the Winter Trail to the top of Nevada Falls.
2. There's Rafting! If I'd had more time the water looks incredible here. 
3. Bicycles - you can take out a bike for $5/hr and cycle round the lower lakes and even do some of the non-uphill routes down at the base, including one to the base of Yosemite Falls.
4. The Curry Village is at the bottom of the Mist Trail (shuttle stop 13b, 14 or 20 will drop you here if you're parked elsewhere) and it's complete with a coffee shop, ice cream option, pizza, Mexican restaurent and other eateries. It's also easy enough to find the tourist information station from here. Plus there's a nifty documentary about the history of Yosemite and the National Park system here. 
5. The Lodge and The Awahane Hotel are also very beautiful. You can stay there all year round and we even saw some almost-tame deer stalking around the grounds.

The area is so wonderful and you could definitely spend weeks, months, years, exploring its forests and climbing the mountains. Remember, you need a permit if you're an avid hiker and want to go all the way to Half Dome. But if you don't see yourself as the next John Muir or Ansel Adams then don't worry - you can enjoy the outstanding natural beauty without climbing to the highest peaks.

Je serai poète et toi poésie,

SCRIBBLER

Day Two - Off to Yosemite

Day two – 13^th May -  Off to Yosemite

The adventure begins properly today – after a whirlwind tour of San Fran with the group (classic photo opportunities of course) and then it was off and away to go to Yosemite (YO-SEM-IT-EE not YOZ-I-MITE). We travelled the four hours from San Fran to our campsite just outside the official National Park. It was lovely albeit a hard, rocky, dusty ground to pitch up on. However, the scenery around us was exquisite. Mountains surround us, pine forest and rivers. Maggie cooked dinner for us when we arrived and we all puttered about doing round about things – playing pool (which I suck at by the way) and dipping our toes in the water.

Dinner was hilarious.

There were several benches around our campground when we arrived and as we set up it was absolutely fine, pulling two together so we could all sit together. Only, one bench didn’t like it when one person sat down without anyone else to balance out the other side. So, of course, after failing to learn our lesson the first time, we managed to upturn the thing four times (meaning my wine was pretty much nourishing the ground rather than me and I’m fairly certain the boys lost a beer or two.

Not a lot to do though, even though seeing the stars like this is wonderful and the rush of the nearby river lulls you into a sense of calm. This is nice, even though the ground is hard as anything and the mats do little to help.

Tomorrow we’re hiking up to the Vernall Falls (3miles) and then maybe up to the top of Nevada Falls (7hours). I’m a little concerned that I’m not as fit as I was but I’m determined to do this. It’s going to be great!

Je serai poète et toi poésie,
SCRIBBLER

Day One - San Francisco

Day one – 12^th May – San Francisco

Today I moved from the USAhostel round the corner to the Adante Hotel. It was literally down Post Street, turn right, down the hill and then up on Geary St. The Adante is a funny little place with a dinky Chinese man on the checkin. His English is dubious but his smile is polite and he gave me a ticket to put my overly heavy bag into the luggage room. I’ll finally be meeting people tonight after three days mooching around the city. I thought I’d be more nervous, this is a huge trip and I’m on my own but I’m not really. The sun is so bright and that makes me happy.

San Francisco is a funny city. With the steep hills and plush green squares, there’s something Mediterranean about the way its set up: like one of the coastal ports along the south of France or Corsica. You could call it beautiful – it’s bright sun right now but the Pacific brings a cool breeze ashore to swirl through the buildings. However, there’s also a seedy underbelly to the place: hundreds of homeless trawling for any small favour the unsuspecting tourist will give them. Some of them are very funny – there’s a guy that’s made a drum kit out of variously sized bins and bottles (he’s really very good!) and there are singers/other street performers. On the docks by Pier 39 there’s a guy in a faux leather jacket, jeans and shirt, his hair is long and dark brown and he’s wearing those sporty sunglasses that shimmer iridescently in the light. He holds a sign: not going to lie, I need a beer. We actually chipped into his fund. Yet some are incredibly rude – yelling and swearing at you when you pass by without giving them anything. A gap-toothed creature with ochre skin and scraggly, prematurely grey hair followed one girl I met in the hostel, calling her all sorts of horrible names because she walked on by without sparing him a glance. If you gave a dollar for every time you were stopped though, you’d lose as much as you do on a casino table in Vegas.

Saying that, I think San Fran could be my perfect city and if I could ever think to afford American health insurance I’d love to live there for a couple of years. It’s not too hot but it’s bright and for early May it’s exactly how we Brits want our summers to be. Furthermore, the ocean is right there, volcanic coastline transforming the landscape so that it recalls the BIVs. An eerie mist lingers over the natural harbour, making the Golden Gate and Bay bridges transform in ghostly apparitions at each end. The Rock sits in the middle, a dismal fortification in the middle of the riptide waters. Even when the wind is missing you can see the churning currents tugging at the surface.

Having met a fellow Brit on my first day at the hostel (we bonded whilst waiting for the kettle to boil as we were the only two determined enough to tap toes for our tea), I’d spent the first day replacing the jeans I ripped whilst fence hoping in Carolina and the doing the touristy walk of the Piers. Leigh, Greg and I hopped onto a Street Car and clung desperately to the bars as we were propelled up the hills and ended up by the Ghirodelli factory.

Here are some tips:

1.       When riding the street car – take the red one (NOT the yellow) and it takes you on the more scenic route whilst also dropping you off right on the pier. If you take the yellow you end up on a shorter, less pretty tour and you still have to walk at the end to actually make it to the end. ALSO you want the red ticket not the yellow (it’s about $5 and so worth it).

2.       There are loads of hostels but USA was really great and well-worth the slightly more expensive price because you’re not in the Tenderloin and you’re really close to Union Square. Plus paid $40 less than for one night in adante over the three days I was there. There are cheaper ones but be careful they’re not in the slightly terrifying Tenderloin.

3.       No matter what people say – the Tenderloin IS scary, particularly if you’re a single traveller. You can walk from one end of the street to the other and go from lovely and populated and wealthy to poor, unclean and uncomfortable. Make sure you know where you should try to avoid – there are some good websites for this so google it before you leave.

And here are some places to see!

Lombard Street – it may not actually be the wiggliest road in America but it’s a pretty close second. The real crookedest road is in . This one however is very pretty deep greens and flowers and the prettiest houses. There was one I was just in love with – a gorgeous Carolina blue.

Pier 39 – it’s a hubbub of touristy things but you can find some great clam chowder in sourdough breadbowls (NOM!). There are seals and sea lions to see there too as long as you don’t mind the overwhelming smell of fish.

Johnny Rocket Diner – if you use the jukebox you might be in luck! The waiters/waitresses here dance and sing for you and the food isn’t bad either.

Alcatraz – It costs about $28 to go across including the ferry and all the tours once you’re on the island. Either book in advance or turn up for the 9.10am – you need to be there AT LEAST 30minutes before departure to complete security etc so realistically arrive around 820/30am if you haven’t a ticket in order to buy one. I was obsessed with the prison even before I arrived – it’s so strange and sinister and isolated. If you arrive in the morning you can do the garden tour (they tell you about all the plant life and the birds because it’s a national park remember not just a cold historical prison). I spent about three hours there wondering around and I’d definitely recommend the audio tour. The audio itself is the real voices of prisoners and guards that used to work/live on the island. Also on Fridays they have a special guest author – when I was there it was Ernie, a SF lawyer whose dad had worked on the island as a guard and was actually one of the eight hostages involved in the shooting. You can see the isolation cells, the D-Block high-security cells, of course you can walked down ‘seedy C-D street’. It was fascinating how they named the blocks to make it more like a home. There are also a number of really great views of the city from The Rock, as well as the Golden Gate Bridge.

Obviously The Golden Gate Bridge is a must see too and actually I loved the fact that it was so misty and grey when we went – the distance seemed exacerbated by the fog. It’s free too and it’s fun to walk out along the bridge to take a shot or two of the rest of the harbour.

There’s also a Segway Tour that I desperately wanted to do but t was fully booked by the time I called up. It’s $70 but you can go up and down the hills and see all the sights from the odd little machines. Admittedly having clung to the rail on the outside of a streetcar I was slightly nervous about trying the things but when in Rome.

Coit Tower is apparently incredible – you can pay $7 and climb to the top for a spectacular view – it comes highly recommended from John (to be introduced).

The Ghirodelli Factory does give out free chocolate but I’d recommend the Wattle Creek Winery’s Wine-tasting Bar in the lower square. When you walk up the stairs there’s a funny fellow who raps and plays the guitar for you, making up songs about what you’re wearing. Give him a dollar and he’ll keep going for a while about how you’re a ‘sweet (blond) angel’. The wine-tasting starts at $10 for the Central Menu and $15 for the Sonoma Menu. If I remember rightly we actually preferred the drier, less expensive menu but the experience with Leigh was great!!

Anyway, that was San Fran – I’ve now met up with the crew and after a delayed beginning (our CEO was late due to trailer issues) we went out to a diner (Louis?) which was great fun. The group is mostly guys and mostly single traveller Brits. There’s Jon and Paul who are Aussies (John is teaching at a summer camp near NY afterwards and Paul is about to retire). Janice, my Canadian room-mate who has family in Wales. There’s Hugh and Angela, a married couple from London and then there’s Tom, Adam, Liam, Jordan and Robert. At first I thought Tom/Adam were travelling together because they seemed to know each other and they’re both skipping out at NOLA but they’re not. Jordan’s a gap-kid, came from Fiji and he’s 18 which is sometime tricky. Liam’s a techno and ‘gardening’ I suppose, changing jobs and travelling in between. I’ll let you know more as I do.

All in all – EXCITED. But then when am I not?

Je serai poète et toi poésie, 
SCRIBBLER

Gap Tours - Adventure Time!

GAP ADVENTURE ITINERARY 

Day 1 San Francisco

Arrive to our joining hotel at any time. Welcome meeting in the evening. 

Now, I'm writing this first post from the Adante Hotel - the 'joining hotel' that we start from. I've been in San Fran for three days now and love it but I'll be updating you on that next!!!

Day 2 San Francisco/Yosemite NP 

Guided Tour of one of the greatest cities in the world: San Francisco! Discover some of the most iconic attractions such as bustling Fisherman's Wharf or the stately Golden Gate Bridge, a marvel of engineering and art deco design. Admire spectacular views of Yosemite National Park's magnificent peaks and granite domes. Take short hikes to majestic waterfalls, clear lakes, beautiful meadows and walk amongst giant sequoias. With a keen eye, you may be lucky enough to spot black bears, deer or coyotes. 

(Mountain) Lions and (metaphorical) tigers and Bears OH MY - I met a lovely fellow on the plane from RDU to LAS who told me all about how his wife went for a dip in a river only to come back and find a big black bear going through her rucksack!! Guess I'd better be careful!!

Day 3 Yosemite NP 

Full day to explore Yosemite National Park. Hike the many trails Yosemite has to offer and be inspired by this beautiful and amazing landscape. Option to rent bikes in Yosemite Valley.

I'm so excited for this - everyone has told me it's absolutely gorgeous and I HOPE HOPE HOPE that it's even half so nice as they say. Apparently the thing to do is to hike up to Half Dome (tbc?!) and look down at the thousands of feet that drop down below. 

Day 4 Yosemite NP/Bishop 

Marvel at the spectacular views of Yosemite National Park's magnificent peaks and granite domes as you enjoy one of most scenic areas in California. Surrounded by peaks which soar to over 14,000 feet in elevation, Bishop, one of "America's Coolest Mountain Towns" sits directly in the center of an incredible area of natural beauty. Enjoy secluded hot springs where star gazing is amazing. 

NB. We intend on using the Tioga Pass, a scenic a route through the Sierra Nevada mountain range that connects Yosemite NP with Bishop. 

I have no idea what this will be like but I'm excited anyway!!

Day 5 Death Valley NP/Las Vegas 

Visit one of the country's most rugged landscapes, the legendary Death Valley, the hottest and driest spot and home to the lowest point in North America. In the evening arrive in the city of lights, Las Vegas! Take a guided Tour of the famous "Las Vegas" strip and experience this unique city with an optional Limo VIP tour! Try your hand with gambling at giant-mega casinos or visit one of the numerous shows offered on the strip(optional). 

For our two nights in Las Vegas, we stay close to the action in a hotel in the city center. 

Day 6 Las Vegas

Free day to explore Las Vegas!

Day 7 Las Vegas/Grand Canyon NP 

Considered among nature's most spectacular offerings, the Grand Canyon provides spectacular opportunities for you to explore. Wander along a trail and feel the sunshine and wind on your face as you admire awe-inspiring views. Sit and watch the changing play of light and shadows. With numerous viewpoints, the Grand Canyon will never look the same! In the afternoon enjoy a bird's eye view of the Grand Canyon with an optional helicopter flight or watch the most spectacular IMAX Adventure of all, the Grand Canyon Movie. Return to your campsite and enjoy a BBQ around the campfire to recapture the experiences from this memorable day! 

Day 8 Grand Canyon NP/Monument Valley 

Discover one of the most majestic places on earth: Monument Valley! Magnificent colors, miles of mesas, buttes and pinnacles make Monument Valley a truly wondrous experience. Learn about the Navajo culture that has been passed on through generations in order to keep the sacred traditions, beliefs and ceremonies alive. Take an optional jeep tour led by a Navajo guide through Monument Valley and be inspired by a night under the stars as you camp in this magnificent atmosphere. See the sun rise from a perspective very few ever experience! 

Day 9 Monument Valley/Mesa Verde NP/Durango 

Drive to Mesa Verde National Park which offers a spectacular look into the lives of the Ancestral Pueblo-ans. Take a guided hike through history as you explore the cliff dwellings of Mesa Verde, some of the most notable and best preserved in North America. 

Day 10 Taos/Santa Fe 

Taos Plaza is undeniably the main focal point of the Town of Taos. Strolling around its compact, peaceful downtown area is a real pleasure. Relax at the Kit Carson Park. Optional visit to the historical site of Taos Pueblo. Continue your journey back in time and explore one of America's oldest and most beautiful cities, Santa Fe. 

Day 11 Santa Fe 

Free day to explore Santa Fe, take a stroll downtown and visit art galeries, or enjoy some world famous roasted green chilies.

Day 12 Carlsbad 

On the night of July 2nd in 1947 something (or someone) crashed into the desert outside of Roswell, New Mexico. Was it a balloon, or really extra-terrestrial life? Find out what all the hype is about as we pass through this funky town. 

Then visit Carlsbad Caverns, one of the oldest and most famous cave systems in the world. Explore the cave on a guided tour and be fascinated by the largest underground chambers and countless formations. In the evening witness the stunning spectacle as nearly 400,000 Mexican free-tail bats exit Carlsbad Cavern. 

Day 13 Fort Stockton/San Antonio 

Consisting of original and reconstructed military buildings, historic Fort Stockton in Texas is an exciting place for you to discover. Learn how this Fort protected travelers and settlers in the 1850's and explore why this place was almost abandoned. Cool off in the clear and intense blue-green waters of Paradise Canyon before we continue to San Antonio in the evening. 

Day 14 The Alamo/Houston 

Deep in the heart of Texas, historic San Antonio has a lot offer. Discover the battle of Alamo in the 18th century while you walk amongst the largest concentration of missions remaining in North America. Continue your journey back in time on the San Antonio River Walk, winding along the San Antonio River or just relax before it's time say goodbye! 

Day 15 Lafayette/New Orleans 

En route we stop in Lafayette, a historic Acadian settlement. Take a walk around the old town, or even take an optional visit to Acadian Village in Lafayette, where you can visit authentic homes that were moved from various other locations piece by piece and carefully restored. Discover the techniques of the early Acadian home builders using wooden pegs, mud walls and high-peaked roofs. 

Our Journey ends in fabulous New Orleans! Enjoy a guided city tour, or choose to visit a nearby plantation. Experience New Orleans at its best. Party in the French Quarter till the early hours, dance to great jazz bands and try out delicious Creole food. Take an optional swamp tour or a steam boat ride on the Mississippi. 

For our two nights in New Orleans, we stay close to the action in a hotel in the city center. 

Day 16 New Orleans

Free day to explore New Orleans! You guys have NO IDEA how excited I am to be going back to this city. It's already claimed my heart and I cannae wait to be back even though this time I'll have to provide for myself!!! (ps. THANK YOU DADDY!!)

Day 17 Memphis  

Hear the beat in Memphis, Tennessee! Explore the birthplace of Rock 'n' Roll, Home of Blues and the starting point of soul. Music Legends including Elvis Presley, Johnny Cash and B.B.King made their marks on Memphis. Relive history at the National Civil Rights Museum, located where the assassination of Martin Luther King Jr took place in 1968. Enjoy another must-see attraction, "The Peabody Hotel" with the now famous Peabody Duck March! In the evening stroll one of America's most famous streets: Beale Street with it's live entertainment! 

Day 18 Memphis/Nashville

In the morning walk in the footsteps of the King of Rock ‘n’ Roll at Elvis Presley’s home, Graceland (optional). See how the legend lived and discover videos, pictures, stage costumes and much more. If this is not your cup of tea, go to the most famous recording studio in the world, Sun Studio! Visit Grand Ole Opry, the show that made country music famous and where unforgettable moments happen! Check out the nightlife and visit real country cowboy bars. 

Day 19 Wytheville 

Experience America's favorite drive: The Blue Ridge Parkway through the Appalachian Mountains! See remains of the settlements along the Parkway, learn their history as we take our time exploring this fabulous drive! The Mountains are a perfect place to relax and to enjoy the fresh, clean air and see the true beauty of North America! Optional short hikes on the many trails throughout the park. 

Day 20 Shenandoah NP/Washington DC   

Continuing on the Blue Ridge Parkway we are passing through Shenandoah National Park, a truly beautiful, historic national treasure. Standing on top of the peaks of Shenandoah National Park, gazing across the silent mountains, it's hard to believe we are just a short distance away from Washington DC. Take a moment of silence as you gaze into the eternal flame of John F Kennedy's grave at the Arlington Cemetery and pay respect to the many other fallen soldiers around you. 

Day 21 Washington DC 

Today is all about the Capitol of the United States. There is so much to see and do in Washington DC that you can't see it all in one day. Take your time as you spend a full day exploring this fascinating city. Tour the National Monuments and Memorials including the White House, Washington Monument, Reflecting Pool and the Lincoln Memorial. Visit the National Mall that includes 15 museums such as the Air and Space Museum and the National Museum of Natural History. Later take a walk through Georgetown. After the sun set over Washington DC experience a truly magnificent night as the Monuments illuminate over the National Mall.

Day 22 Philadelphia/New York City  

Discover the path of American History in Philadelphia. Visit Independence Hall and explore the facts and myth surrounding the Liberty Bell, the symbol of freedom. Last but not least enjoy the last afternoon with a city tour in New York City. Visit New York City's landmark, the see the Statue of Liberty from Battery Park, stand on top of the world of the Empire State Building and take a look back on 9/11 as you stand at Ground Zero. Enjoy a last dinner with your group before saying goodbye! 

Day 23 New York City

FARE THEE WELL

Je serai poète et toi poésie, 
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